Introduction
A roof truss is the frame that holds up your roof. This roof truss calculator works out the size and number of trusses you need for a shed, garage, barn, or house. Just type in your span, pitch, overhang, and building length, and it does the math for you.
You can pick from six truss types: common (king), attic, scissor, fink (W-truss), king post, and shed/mono. Choose feet and inches or meters and centimeters. Then set your roof pitch, truss spacing, and load type.
The calculator gives you:
- Rise, top chord, bottom chord, and rake length
- How many trusses you need
- Overall roof width and truss weight
- A full lumber cut list with board feet
- A scaled drawing of your truss
- Step-by-step math so you can check the work
Use it to plan your build, order lumber, and cut down on waste. These numbers are estimates for planning. For a real build, have a truss maker or engineer sign off on the design and check your local building code.
How to use our Roof Truss Calculator
Enter your roof size, pitch, truss type, and spacing. The calculator shows your rise, top chord, bottom chord, rake length, how many trusses you need, the weight of each truss, a scaled truss diagram, and a full lumber cut list.
Unit System: Pick Imperial (feet and inches) or Metric (meters and centimeters). Your numbers change over on their own when you switch. If you need to convert a stray measurement by hand, the meters to feet calculator and feet and inches calculator can help.
Truss Type: Choose the truss shape you plan to build — Common (King), Attic, Scissor, Fink (W-Truss), King Post, or Shed/Mono. Each one uses a different web layout. For member forces in a general frame, see the truss calculator.
Span: Type the distance from the outside of one bearing wall to the outside of the other wall. Do not add the overhang here.
Overhang (per side): Type how far the rafter tail sticks past the wall, measured flat. Use 0 if you have no overhang.
Building Length: Type the length of the roof along the ridge. This sets how many trusses you need.
Raised Heel Height: Type the height at the wall between the bottom chord and top chord. Use 0 for a standard heel, or a larger number for an energy heel that leaves room for full-depth attic insulation.
Attic Room Width: This box shows only for Attic Trusses. Type the width of the flat ceiling inside the attic room. It must be at least 2 feet (61 cm) less than the span.
Roof Pitch: Tap a pitch button, like 6/12, to set how much the roof rises for every 12 of run. Not sure what your pitch is? Measure it first with the roof pitch calculator.
Custom Pitch: Need a pitch that is not listed? Type a number from 1 to 24. This overrides the pitch buttons.
Truss Spacing: Pick the on-center spacing between trusses — 12″, 16″, 19.2″, or 24″. Most homes use 24″ on center, the same layout used by the stud calculator for walls.
Roof Load Category: Pick Light for metal roofing and low snow, Standard for asphalt shingles, or Heavy for tile, slate, or deep snow. This sets the lumber size used in the cut list and weight.
Calculate and Reset: Press Calculate to see your results, cut list, and step-by-step math. Press Reset to start over with the default values.
What Is a Roof Truss?
A roof truss is a strong wooden frame that holds up a roof. It is built in a triangle shape because triangles do not bend or twist easily. Trusses are made in a shop, then lifted onto the walls and lined up in a row. Together they carry the weight of the sheathing, shingles, snow, and wind down into the walls.
Parts of a Truss
- Top chord — the two sloped boards that form the roof line. The roof deck nails to these.
- Bottom chord — the flat board across the base. It ties the walls together and often holds the ceiling.
- Webs — the short boards inside that spread the load between the chords.
- King post — a single upright web in the middle, from the peak down to the bottom chord.
- Heel — the point where the top chord meets the bottom chord over the wall. A raised heel lifts the top chord higher so thick insulation fits above the wall.
- Overhang (tail) — the part of the top chord that sticks out past the wall to make the eave and fascia.
Span, Pitch, and Rake
Span is the distance from the outside of one bearing wall to the outside of the other. It does not include the overhang. Run is half the span on a normal gable roof, because the roof climbs from each wall to the peak in the middle.
Pitch is written as X/12. A 6/12 pitch rises 6 inches for every 12 inches of run. Steeper pitch means more rise, longer boards, and a taller truss. Rise is how high the peak sits above the heel. If you would rather work in percent or degrees, the slope percentage calculator converts between them.
Rake is the full sloped length of the top chord, from the fascia at the eave all the way to the peak. It is longer than the run because it follows the slope, not the flat ground. You find it with the Pythagorean rule: the sloped length equals the run times the square root of 1 plus (pitch ÷ 12) squared. A stick-built roof uses the same math — see the rafter calculator.
Common Truss Types
- Common (King) — a plain gable truss with a king post and two struts. The most used shape.
- Fink (W-truss) — webs form a W. It is cheap and works well on longer spans.
- King Post — just one center post. Best for short spans, porches, and open beam looks.
- Attic truss — leaves an open room inside the roof for storage or living space.
- Scissor truss — the bottom chords slope up and cross, giving a vaulted ceiling below.
- Shed / Mono — one slope only, used on lean-tos, sheds, and additions.
Spacing and Truss Count
Trusses sit at an on-center spacing, measured from the middle of one truss to the middle of the next. Most houses use 24 inches on center. Heavier roofs, tile, or big snow loads may need 16 inches. Closer spacing means more trusses and more strength. The count is the building length divided by the spacing, plus one for the last truss at the end. The same layout rule drives the framing calculator and the floor joist calculator.
Roof Load
Load is the total weight the roof must hold. Dead load is the roof itself — trusses, sheathing, and shingles. Live load is added weight like snow, rain, wind, and workers. Light roofs, such as metal in warm areas, need smaller lumber. Heavy roofs with tile, slate, or deep snow need bigger chords, like 2×8 top chords instead of 2×6. Wind uplift on the roof plane can be checked with the wind load calculator, and beam sizing over open spans with the beam deflection calculator.
Why the Numbers Matter
Board lengths, board feet, and truss weight help you order lumber, plan cuts, and know how the trusses will be lifted. Small trusses can be set by hand; long or heavy ones need a crane. Always add a little extra length for cuts and waste. Once the trusses are up, use the roof area calculator to get the deck area, then the shingle calculator or the roofing calculator to price out the covering. For total board length on the order, the linear feet calculator is handy.
Get an Engineer's Stamp
These numbers are for planning and estimating. Real trusses must be designed and sealed by a truss engineer for your local snow, wind, and building code. Never cut, notch, or drill a finished truss, and never change a web without written approval — one cut board can weaken the whole roof.